We’re sitting with our backs resting against one of the sandstone pillars called the Wainstones, a jumble of rocks that for centuries have defied all attempts by the British weather to wear them away.
“If I had to pick one place along the Cleveland Way where people should come to experience the National Trail for the first time, it would be here,” says National Trails Officer Malcolm Hodgson.
It’s easy to see why. After a sharpish pull up to Hasty Bank, the reward is a magnificent level walk along a ridge that separates the Tees Valley with its patchwork of fields leading to the industrial landscape beyond and the sweeping wilds of Bilsdale and moorland in the other direction.
As we scan the horizon, our eyes pick out Roseberry Topping and Captain Cook’s Monument proudly rising up from the Tees Valley, glimpses of the North Sea and the paved path of the Cleveland Way National Trail tantalisingly winding its way further along the ridge before disappearing from view.
“There are plenty of legends associated with the Wainstones,” Malcolm explains, “but the name probably derives from the Saxon word ‘wanian’ which means to grieve. So the thinking goes that this was once a special place where people came to mourn.
“In many ways this route sums up the character of the Cleveland Way. The sheer diversity of landscape that people can enjoy along the trail as well as the numerous points of interest, whether it’s an historical monument like Rievaulx Abbey or legends attached to a place that all shed light on the North York Moors past.”
He should know as Malcolm first became Trails Officer for the Cleveland Way back in 1992. Since then he’s built up a staggering bank of information about the horseshoe-shaped long distance trail which first opened in 1969 and runs from Helmsley to Saltburn before hugging the coast down to Filey Brigg.
Ask him a quick round of fast facts:
The fastest time to complete the whole 109 miles?
“ That is Eddy Healey in 19 hours 23 minutes as part of Hardmoors 110 in 2022.”
And the slowest?
“A couple who walked stretches of the trail and finally completed the final section 50 years’ later.”
He adds: “And that’s the point, national trails like the Cleveland Way were created for everybody to use, not just those intent on completing a long distance challenge all in one go. Today we’re still working to increase that accessibility. We’ve already removed physical barriers under Miles without Stiles and we’re changing perceptions by promoting a whole range of circular walks incorporating a chunk of the trail.”
Over the years the Cleveland Way has certainly become more popular and while one official survey recorded 350,000 users in one year, Malcolm believes that’s a very conservative estimate.
“A few decades ago we would really only see walkers who were doing the whole route but in recent years we’ve noticed far more trail runners, thanks in part to Hardmoors, organisers of a series of ultra-distance races; plus of course, day walkers.”
All of those footsteps are bound to have an impact on the environment which is why there’s a continual programme of maintenance and restoration, including dealing with the impact of coastal erosion and landslips.
As we retrace our steps down from the Wainstones, Malcolm explains: “In the early years most of the work as spent laying slabs and stones on badly eroded paths to establish a robust enough trail that would help prevent feet straying onto the surrounding vulnerable peat moorland.
“Today more of my role is spent liaising with funding bodies as well as promoting the Cleveland Way, whether it’s attending an exhibition, overseeing events such as our geocaching days, or creating and adding circular walks to the website. We have a dedicated National Trail Ranger Andrew Carter who carries out the bulk of the work, Henry the UK's first National Trails Apprentice as well as Bernie being on the National Trails Team delivering the Coast to Coast project. Each winter, we survey the whole trail and then prioritise the work to be done.”
Even with the massive support of volunteers, Malcolm reckons the annual upkeep and promotional cost of the Cleveland Way still works out at about £1,000 per mile. A significant lump of the money comes from Government funds via Natural England and also local authorities but, increasingly, financial support from businesses and the general public is crucial.
“We have some fantastic local support including Hardmoors who donate a proportion of each race entry fee to the Cleveland Way, which has enabled us to buy a vehicle for Andrew; and we can even generate a few hundred pounds by selling redundant Cleveland Way signs.”
Malcolm then mentions Helmsley Brewing Company and it’s hard not to notice the way his eyes light up a little bit more as he talks about the proceeds that come from each sale of the pint of the specially-brewed beer, Striding the Riding.
“When I’m not working, my favourite day out on the Cleveland Way is to have a good yomp which ends with a pint in-hand sitting in a pub reflecting on just how mighty fine that day has been,” he muses.
For now though, the pint has to wait as, with our walking interview complete, Malcolm heads back to the Helmsley office to discuss progress of the Coast to Coast project – the creation of a national trail for the ever-popular Coast to Coast walk which begins in Cumbria and ends at Robin Hood’s Bay.
Before he leaves he says: “the Coast to Coast will become a National Trail 2025, as there Is a raft of infrastructure improvements that Bernie is delivering before it can be opened, as well as legal work to get the best walked line for the route, which our Public Right of Way Officer is doing a great job with. Once opened it will offer greater reassurance to people who want to try part, or all the route, and it will be a fantastic addition to the National Trail family.”
Watch this space!